Your legs are pumping, your heart is pounding and your head has a constant throb from the altitude. Your lungs burn from fighting to breathe thin air as you climb a hill that goes on for hours without a flat spot. Then you smile and think of the amazing culture, the amazing people and the amazing challenge that makes up this great adventure of cycling through Tibet.

When approached to guide a 28 day cycling trip through Tibet I was enthralled. I knew what to expect having been there previously by jeep. Cycling from Lhasa, Tibet to Kathmandu, Nepal would not be a lazy trip. The first thing I did to prepare was get my butt into some of Heavens spinning classes. Spinning jump started my cycling muscles and reminded my lungs how it feels to be taxed. What a great workout, what great preparation for Tibet. Climbing seven major passes, long hill climbs ranging from 4700m (15 500ft) to 5250m (17 300ft). Not to mention cycling the rugged road into Mt Everst basecamp and living at altitudes where your low point is 4200m (13 800ft).

Tibet known also as Shangra La, the roof of the world. A place very few foreigners have visited. The worlds highest mountains the Himalayas run along the south border with India, Nepal and Bhutan. A rich culture centered around Tibetan Buddhism. Riding past people working the tsampa (barley) fields with traditional tools, always a yak nearby. Sun and wind beaten faces bearing huge smiles, a wave and a hello or a Tashi Dele. Everyone wearing something with their traditional Tibetan buddist colours of dark red and yellow.

The common experience of exerting oneself to the top of high passes quickly changes any thought of competition into support of your companions. Looking up as you pedal your bike to the greeting of flapping prayer flags stretched out over a windy pass. The power of the wind casting the prayers printed on the red, yellow, green, blue and white flags. Tibetans and Nepalese yelling a prayer "so so so so soooooo" into the wind as they go by. We always have a celebration at the top. Everyone waits for the entire group to show up to share the unbelieveable views, take photos, drink tea, tell stories of the climb and share congratulations. Continuing on we silently roll away as group, gravity propelling our wheels, the sound of flags flapping in a stiff breeze behind us. We begin our descent.

My weight training at Heavens really makes a difference. Not only with the obvoius increased leg strength to propel me along the road but also in the upper body. Strong chest shoulders and triceps has made things more comfortable as they work together as a shock absorber. My trapezius and neck muscles work hard all day to keep my head up to see the road.

Bouncing off the beaten track for a spectacular view of Mt Everst from basecamp. Constant change in weather and light throughout the day leaves one oooh ing and ahhing broken only by the extra concentration it takes to take a photo at 5000m. Waking up to a view of Everest, wow. Early light casts magic on the worlds tallest peak. We take the day to sit in the sun and watch the magnificance of Everest.

We take time to visit monastaries. The history of Tibet revolves around the monastaries. Every time you step into one you step into a deep history of the local people. Our cultural guide Pasang, a Tibetan, explains the elaborate thanka paintings on the walls and tells us stories until our heads are full. 50 years ago 40% of the population of Tibet were monks. Still today Tibetans are a deeply religious people with an undaunting love of their spiritual leader the Dalai Lama. We watch as Tibetans walk clockwise around the monastaries spinning mani wheels with their right hands and hand held prayer wheels with their left reciting the mantra "om ma ne pad mai hom".

This trip is truely a dream for a cyclist. Let me tell you about the worlds longest downhill. After pumping up 2 big hills in the morning reaching a new high point of 5250m (17,300ft) the road takes a turn for the better. Down. Wooooo Hoooooo. For 3 days you ride next to the Bhote Kosi river as it decends from the highest alpine in the world into the lush forests of Nepal. There are a few of hills but dense air, paved roads and your new strength from Tibetan conditioning - why bother gearing down? Fly by buses on your way up. Powerfull legs in top gear thriving on the climb. Reach the top with a smile and continue the decent screaming down long winding roads. Warm sun and humid air in your lungs and on your face. Heaven on a bike.

Text, Photos and Web Design by Steve McGrath


Potala Palace

Abs of Down

Friendly Tibetans

Tong la Pass 5150m

Buddist Temple

Everest Base Camp Tibet